(b) Enfleurage and Défleurage.
Every enfleurage building is equipped with
thousands of so-called chassis, which serve as vehicles for holding the fat corps
during the process. A chassis consists of a rectangular wooden frame 2 in. high,
about 20 in. long and about 16 in. wide. The frame holds a glass plate upon both
sides of which the fat corps is applied with a spatula at the beginning of the enfleurage
process. When piled one above the other the chassis form airtight compartments with
a layer of fat on the upper and lower side of each glass plate.
Every morning during the harvest the freshly picked
flowers arrive, and having first been cleaned of impurities, such as leaves and
stalks, are then strewn by hand on top of the fat layer of each glass plate. Blossoms
wet from dew or rain must never be employed, as any trace of moisture would turn
the corps rancid.
PLATE 7. Enfleurage process. (Spreading of jasmine; flowers on top of the fat layer on
the glass plates of the chassis.)
The chassis are then piled up and left in the
cellars for 24 hr. or longer, depending upon the type of flowers. The latter
rest in direct contact with one fat layer (the lower one), which acts as a direct
solvent, whereas the other fat layer (beneath the glass plate of the chassis above)
absorbs only the volatile perfume given off by the flowers.
After 24 hr. the flowers have emitted most of
their oil and start to wither, developing an objectionable odor. They must then
be removed from the corps, which process, despite all efforts to introduce
labor-saving devices, is still done by hand. The careful removal of the flowers
(défleurage) is almost more important than charging the corps on the chassis with
fresh flowers (enfleurage) and, therefore, the women doing this work must be experienced
and skilled. Most of the exhausted flowers will fall from the fat layer on the chassis
glass plate when the chassis is struck lightly against the working table, but since
it is necessary to remove every single flower and every particle of the flowers,
the women use tweezers for this delicate operation. Immediately following défleurage,
that is, every 24 hr., the chassis are recharged with fresh flowers. For this purpose
the chassis are turned over and the fat layer, which in the previous operation formed
the top (ceiling) of the small chamber, is now directly charged with flowers. In
the case of jasmine, the entire enfleurage process lasts about 70 days; daily the
exhausted flowers are removed and the chassis recharged with fresh ones.
During the height of the harvest large
quantities of flowers arrive every morning, which necessitates certain modifications
in the process. Complications result from the fact that at the beginning and at
the end of the harvest the quantities of flowers are very limited and, therefore,
it is practically impossible to charge the chassis each day of the flower harvest
with the same amount of flowers.
At the beginning of, and several times during,
the harvest, the fat on the chassis is scratched over with metal combs and tiny
furrows are drawn in order to change and increase the surface of absorption.
At the end of the harvest the fat is relatively
saturated with flower oil and possesses their typical fragrance. The perfumed fat
must then be removed from the glass plates between the chassis. For this purpose
it is scraped off with a spatula and then carefully melted and bulked in closed
containers. The final product is called pomade (pomade de jasmin, pomade de tubereuse,
pomade de violet, etc.), the most highly saturated pomade being Pomade No. 36, because
the corps on the chassis has been treated with fresh flowers 36 times during the
whole process of enfleurage. At the beginning of the harvest every chassis is charged
with about 360 g. of fat corps on each side of the glass plate, in other words,
with 720 g. per chassis. Every kilo gram of fat corps should be in contact with
about 2.5 kg. (preferably with 3.0 kg.) of jasmine flowers for the entire period
of enfleurage, which lasts from 8 to 10 weeks. The quantities differ somewhat in
the case of other flowers.
At the end of the enfleurage, the fat corps has
lost about 10 per cent of its weight because of various manipulations. In other
words, the total yield of the fragrant Pomade No. 36 is about 10 per cent less than
the fat corps originally applied to the chassis. Most of this loss is caused by
fat adhering to the exhausted flowers when they are removed (défleurage) every 24
hr.
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